"Latex-ite Pli-Stix Crack Filler - User Review"

 By Ron Stultz

26 January 2013

Summary: really like this product as you use a propane torch to melt it and it seeps well into crack and then forms hard, tight seal. Highly recommended.

Background:

I have 150 foot long X 8 feet wide driveway with additional 40 foot wide X 10 feet deep parking area.

Was resurfaced in 1990.

Was hot sealed in 1990.

In 2012, large tree right beside driveway was blown over in storm and driveway severely turn apart.

As had many cracks due to tree roots.

As driveway level with garage, top layer would have to be removed to re-asphalt and estimated cost was $10,000.

Pli-Stix driveway crack sealer:

Pli-Stix driveway crack sealer is a rubber compound made into a "rope" and coiled such that you can cut off a piece, place in a crack and then melt it with a propane torch.

Pli-Stix, when properly melted flows down into a crack and surrounding and forms a nice, hard, tight seal.

Pli-Stix, once in crack, can be reheated over and over and easily added to.

Pli-Stix comes in at least 2 diameter "ropes": small and medium. I prefer the small as more in coil and can easily cut and melt more into a larger crack.

To use Pli-Stix you going to need either a very high heat, electric heat gun (1200F) or a propane torch of the type where the torch head is connected via a 3 foot or longer hose to a standing vertical propane gas tank. A normal old propane torch where the torch head is attached directly to the propane bottle will not work as the torch will go out as you tip the propane bottom up to get the flame directed down on the Pli-Stix.

A high heat gun will work but slower. Recommend a propane torch. A torch that burns MAF gas also is good as it burns a little hotter than straight propane.

How to use Pli-Stix driveway crack sealer:

Wear a cheap pair of work gloves. Asphalt is messy and any slight of the hand could send a very hot torch head across you hand.

Be careful!!

I prefer to take a chisel and make the crack I am going to seal a little wider by chip out along the edges.

Now uncoiling some Pli-Stix, cut off a piece that is as long as the crack you want to fill.

Place Pli-Stix in crack. You can try tamping Pli-Stix piece into crack but I found it just did not tamp very well.

Start up torch or heat gun.

Starting at one end, direct torch or heat gun heat directly onto Pli-Stix and you will see it begin to melt almost immediately.

Move heat back and forth, melting as you go.

Make sure Pli-Stix melts completely.

If melted rubber bubbles and after cooled shows all sorts of small holes, you need to add more Pli-Stix to that area.

If after you have melted a piece into your crack, you have a depression here or there, you can cut off a short piece of Pli-Stix and place in depression and melt the new piece into the existing rubber.

Pli-Stix forms a nice, black, hard, rubber seal.

If you prefer to not have the black rubber show, you can take new asphalt, lay onto Pli-Six rubber seal and then reheat seal such that new asphalt bonds to existing rubber seal.

Then use a 3 pound hammer to tamp the asphalt you added to the crack to make it flush with surrounding asphalt.